L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Hong Kong – consistency is everything
No matter what city you’re in, heading to L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon gives a feeling of familiarity, comfort and certainty. In Hong Kong’s Central district, the restaurant has three Michelin stars so obviously is no poor relation to Paris or any of the other Ateliers around the world.
The decor and kitchen set up is virtually identical, as are the less than convincing responses of ‘oui’ from the predominantly Chinese chefs when an order is called. High velvet stools surround the kitchen giving you a great vantage point to see a top team in action. The chefs operate in near silence and it’s every man and his tweezers in the painstaking plating of the dishes.
As you’d also expect, some of the plates on offer are the same as previously experienced in Paris and Singapore. This, however, was the first time Greedy Girl and gluttonous husband had attended for lunch and the set options give a great opportunity to experience such high quality food at a reasonable price point.
After absolutely pigging out on the inventive and wondrous dishes at Bo Innovation the night before (see that blog here) we couldn’t face another tasting menu. We ordered the standard three courses (the amuse bouche and petits fours were complimentary) and were able to choose from a number of dishes. There’s also the chance to devise your own tasting menu, of any number of small dishes.
Greedy Girl ordered a glass of the house champagne, Arlaux Brut, from a boutique champagne house in France that has been operating since 1826. It proved to be a good match for her food. Gluttonous husband quietly nursed a gin and tonic while eyeing the gigantic bread basket with a touch of weariness. Food overload? We had it in spades.
First up was an amuse bouche. We were urged to eat from right to left. On the right was foie gras topped with a pomegranate gel. It was delish and did the job – the tastebuds stirred back into life. On the left was a twist on a classic – melon and prosciutto. This was a ham mousse with honeydew melon essence and small chunks, topped with a sprinkling of pepper. Again, very good.
Amuse bouche (featuring foie gras!)
Asparagus, quail egg, truffle, enoki mushrooms
Girolle mushroom soup
Pan-seared Hokkaido scallops
Swordfish with saffron risotto
Desserts were up next. Gluttonous husband took ‘L’Abricot’. Rather disingenuously, this is described on the menu in a very unexciting manner – apricot compote and mousse with vanilla ice-cream. It was a pretty plate and had rather more elements than the description, including honeycomb and other assorted crispy bits. He was very pleased with it.
L’Abricot
Greedy Girl made an unusual choice for her tastes – La Banane. This was sliced banana with honeycomb, topped with a coconut ice-cream and chocolate disc. It was cold, refreshing and Greedy Girl hopes she doesn’t have ill effects from the coconut component (especially, as she writes this blog, she’s about to get on a plane for the overnight flight back to Australia).
La Banane
We finished with some coffees and the obligatory petits-fours. Tiny raspberry jelly cubes, citrus-flavoured madeleines, vanilla macarons and the little golden pellets were filled with a crispy chocolate. Yum.
Petits fours
All told, we laid siege to our spots at the bar for just on an hour and a half. It was a very pleasant spot to while away our last afternoon in Hong Kong. It was accomplished and tasty food – but having spent a fair amount of the past month in France, we’d had more than our fair share of that style. The contrast also with the inventiveness and flair of the evening before was also still uppermost in our minds. Still, the chance to enjoy world-class cooking – three courses (plus benefits) for around A$110 each was a treat and something to be recommended.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Hong Kong
The Landmark Atrium, Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong
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